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27 March
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Niceland

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The last three days in Iceland have been incredible. Nestled into the Skier’s Valley is Artic Heli Skiing’shome base. Peaks rise up to 4,000 vertical feet in a 360-degree view that is breathetaking.

True to its namesake (Niceland), Iceland is home to some of the most kind people I have ever met. And they have a great sense of humor. For example, we were having lunch in Olsfiorder and one of the newscasters was doing the news, on camera, in his underwear. I think he was trying to make the point that it was a nice, warm day in Iceland. Point taken.

A warm day in Iceland isn’t that warm. The average high is 55 degrees in the summer. On the flip side, it’s not as cold as I had expected. The winter temperatures average around 30 degrees.

We’ve had just a taste of the skiing so far, which definitely left us wanting more. Every direction I look there is a beautiful peak, waiting to be skied.

Most of the slopes are 35-55 degrees and average 2,000-3,000 vertical feet. Iceland may be famous for its corn skiing, but I can attest that the powder skiing is as good as it get as well.

I came to Iceland to ski, but skiing is not the only thing there is to do on the island. In the last three days I have been surfing, seen waterfalls, walked through volcanoes, stood in a light house, rode a horse, and experienced one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen in my life. We even got to see the Aurora Borealis (see below).

And that is just touching the surface (the tip of the iceberg) of what there is to do and see in this magnificent place.

[After the jump there are some photo contributions from Sierra Quitiquit as well!]

 

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19 March
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Anticipation in Iceland

I arrived in the Skier’s Valley of Akureyri last night.  It was dark.  As I drove down the Troll Peninsula, I was assured that I was driving into the middle of nowhere.  As the city lights faded away we drove deeper into the valley.  The roads turned from pavement to snow and in the distance I could see I small beacon of light.  Eventually we came to Artic Heli Skiing’s base camp.  A beautiful old farm house that was homesteaded by JB’s Grandparents.  JB, owner of Artic Heli Skiing, grew up in this house.  He was one of the first on the remote island to start skiing.

“Iceland is a skier’s place.  It is not like skiing in Canada: short swing turns in a foot a powder.  The runs are steep and long.  We will ski 20 plus runs a day.  Each run is between 1200ft to 2000ft of vertical.  Most skier’s want powder, but Iceland is all about the corn skiing.  It is the best corn skiing in the world.  The sun stays at the same level in the sky all day long.  So it’s not like the Alps where you need to ski the corn at the perfect time of day or it turns to mush.  You can ski perfect corn all day long in Iceland.”

As I snuggled into my down comforter and closed my eyes for the night, I could here the storm brewing outside.  I think tomorrow we will be skiing powder.

 

 

25 January
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Preparing for Chamonix Freeride World Tour 2013

It crazy how life changes.  On Monday, I had no plans of competing on the Freeride World Tour 2013.  By tuesday, I had a flight booked to Chamonix.  By Wednesday, I was standing at the bottom of the competition face for the second stop of the Freeride World Tour.  Apparently, I just can’t get enough of this wonderful sport.

Inspecting the Competition Face, Chamonix 2013

I am so excited to be here.  Sometimes you just feel like you are in the right place at the right time.  Hopefully, I will feel the same standing in the starting gate tomorrow.  The competition will begin at 9am.  The men will kick off the competition.  I was a little disappointed that the women would not run first, until I heard that the men will load the tram at 5am and will have to start hiking in the dark.  The hike is predicted to take 90 minutes.  The first woman should leave the starting gate at approximately 12:30pm.  I’m feeling better about skiing after the men and waking up at 8am even if there will be a few tracks on the face.

The face looks great and the snow looks even better.  Two mountain guides skied the face today.  The snow looked blower.  I’m psyched!  I have not found a line yet, but that isn’t abnormal.  I prefer to have options and see how I feel in the morning.  We will hike up the looker right couloir which will give me great view of the venue, up close and personal.

There will be a live feed for the competition tomorrow at www.freerideworldtour.com.  The men will run at 1am MST and the women should run at 4:30am MST.  I was lucky enough to choose bib 11, aka last, for the women!  Wish us luck!

Riders Inspection, Chamonix 2013

03 January
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Freeskier Profile

Profile: Jess McMillan is a model of strength and perseverance

January 3rd, 2013by 

On May 10, somewhere just shy of the summit of the South Sister, OR, Jess McMillan stopped hiking and wondered whether she was having fun at that moment. It had been one of those days—you know, the kind where you wake up at 3 a.m. after having climbed and skied five volcanoesand some 23,000 odd feet of vertical over the previous six days and you’ve been hiking for 11 hours in snow-magnified spring heat, and you’re almost out of water. She was exhausted. Not to mention a raven had unzipped her pack and helped itself to her entire lunch a few hours earlier. “At least he didn’t like gels or Shot Bloks,” she recalls.

Photos by Ian Fohrman in Jackson Hole, WY

Luckily, McMillan’s strength reserves run deep. The blonde 33-year-old big mountain skier, born and raised in Jackson Hole, grew up ski racing and hiking Teton Pass. After earning degrees in forestry and business while on the ski team at University of Montana, she succumbed to “the typical ski racer burnout,” and moved to Ashland, OR, to focus on kayaking for two years. She couldn’t stay away from Jackson long, though, and soon found herself on the hill coaching. One day she realized she wanted to be skiing, not standing there watching others do it. After a fourth place finish in her first freeskiing contest at Snowbird, she took second place in the IFSA World Tour the following year, and won the whole tour in 2007.

Her current successes—filming for Warren Miller and Storm Show the past two years while remaining a dominant force on both freeskiing tours and balancing various ski mountaineering projects—are no doubt due in part to her notoriously difficult training regimen and a serious work ethic.

Jess is an incredibly hard worker and dedicated to her sport,” says Crystal Wright, one of McMillan’s ski partners in Jackson and 2012 Freeskiing World Tour Champion. “I love skiing with her because I am continually pushed and always working toward being a better skier. Also, she is one of the toughest ladies I know mentally and will push through anything.”

McMillan became a certified Pilates instructor a few years ago and teaches classes in the summer months before heading down to Las Leñas, where she has skied each of the last eight years in a row. She then focuses hard on ski season training in the fall, which means four days a week at the elite Mountain Athlete program in Jackson doing everything from lifting, sprints, jumps, rope climbing to crossfit, plus three to four days of Pilates and either a run, hike, or bike ride four days a week.

“Over the years everyone has called skiers athletes,” says McMillan. “But big mountain skiers don’t typically train like world cup ski racers, and at the time I wasn’t training that way either. I decided that if I was going to call myself an athlete and allow others to call me an athlete, I wanted to be an athlete. The training has made me feel more like an athlete mentally and physically.”

It’s also made her incredibly resilient. A high-speed tomahawk early in the 2011 season left her with seriously injured C-1 and C-5 vertebrae in her neck, to the point where some specialists considered her lucky to be alive. Her doctor predicted an eight month recovery, but she rehabbed hard and by April was feeling strong and getting restless. It had just dumped four feet in Jackson and she had been eyeing Fat Bastard—a notorious whopper and TGR movie mainstay—for some time. She sent it and had a small tumble but considered herself healed and went on to place first at the Chilean Freeskiing Championships a few months later.

This determination, plus her positive attitude made her a natural choice when Chris Davenport was looking for partners for his Volcano Tour this past spring. “Jess has as good an attitude as one can have out in the mountains,” says Chris, “She is really strong and confident, a tough woman, and willing to push herself. But her optimism and stoke is really what was so important for this project.”

McMillan and Davenport were the only two to do the whole tour—15 volcanoes in 14 days for a total of nearly 80,000 vertical feet and 141 miles of skiing on every volcano from Mt. Shasta in California to Mt. Baker in Washington. They lived in and drove a huge motorhome, were sponsored by Whole Foods and consumed many Hulk Smoothies (ingredients in this concoction include Maca powder, bananas, and kale) and were joined by various friends for different peaks with up to eight people staying in the RV at one time.

During such a grueling trip, the fact that McMillan experienced only that one exhausted, questioning moment on South Sister is especially impressive. As she rested and contemplated, Davenport poked his head over the ridge from the peak just above, and yelled, “Are you coming?” Jess sighed. “Yes, I’m coming!” Chris hollered, “Well then keep walking!” “I’m walking, damnit,” she muttered, and continued upwards.

Soon she was ripping her signature powerful turns back to the land yacht, forgetting she ever even questioned herself. “You get to the top, and you ski down, and it’s amazing corn and you’re like, yeah, I was having fun the whole time.”

*This article originally appeared in the 2013 FREESKIER Backcountry Issue. Subscribe to the magazine, or get it on the iTunes Newsstand.
12 June
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24 May
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15 Volcanos, 14 Days, 78,674 Vertical Feet, and 141.32 Miles!

Written on May 22, 2012
Seattle, WA.

Reflecting on the past two weeks, this has been a trip we will never forget.  As I wrote in the last post from Mt. Baker, the end of our Volcano Tour has been bittersweet. We had so much fun with so many great partners on so many peaks that we are now in a strange post-expedition funk where the only remedy is continued activity – yoga, climbing, and running have filled the void here in Seattle. Jess and I have some of our favorite Whole Foods recipes from the trip to share w/ you, and of course, we have some wholehearted thanks to give to everyone who helped make this one of the most fun adventures we have ever had.

First off, here is a summary of the route info and data from the Volcano Tour:

For those of you thinking about a similar goal, we have two recommendations: First, definitely build a couple of rest days into your plan. Climbing / skiing days can be long and your body needs to recover so you can keep up the pace.  Sleep is crucial, even if you never seem to get enough.  Second, make sure you are getting enough calories, and the right kind of calories, to fuel your adventure.  The recipes below are a few of our favorites from the trip and were designed by Healthy Eating Specialist Sarah Morgan at Whole Foods Market.

High Protein Waffles:

  • 1 cup rolled oatmeal
  • 1 cup cottage cheese
  • 4 eggs
  • 1 tsp vanilla extract
  • ½ tsp cinnamon
  • Spray oil for griddle

SERVES: 2-3.

REPEAT RECIPE FOR MORE WAFFLES/PANCAKES. CAN BE FROZEN FOR LATER USE.

Method: Place ingredients in blender and blend until smooth. Spray waffle iron or griddle , spoon batter into iron or griddle and cook until golden brown. Serve with maple syrup, nut butter and fresh fruit.

The Hulk Smoothie:

  • 1 cup spinach
  • 1 cup kale
  • 1 cup orange juice
  • 1 TBSP flax seed
  • 1 banana (frozen or fresh)
  • 1-2 scoops protein powder of choice
  • 1 TBSP Maca Powder

MAKES ONE SMOOTHIE.

Method: Layer blender with orange juice, banana, flaxseed, protein powder, maca powder, spinach, and kale. Blend until smooth and add more orange juice as desired.

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24 May
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Mount Baker

The crew admires another “X” on the back of the Land Yacht. 15 Volcanoes in 14 days.

By: Chris Davenport

Written on May 20, 2012

The end of any great journey or vacation is always bittersweet. On one hand, you have a wonderful collection of memories and experiences, but on the other hand you are left wanting more. Now that we have wrapped up our Volcano Tour with yesterday’s ascent and ski of Mt. Baker, we all find ourselves fulfilled, but at the same time wondering what to do today (?). To me, this is the true measure of the success of an adventure. We succeeded on many levels, yet are now as motivated as ever for more.

Our final volcano mission on Mt. Baker was somewhat fortuitous. We drove many hours north after ourlong one-day ascent of Mt. Rainier on the 17th, and arrived in the Mt. Baker ski area parking lot at midnight. Everyone was truly exhausted. Christy Mahon, who was driving a car with her husband Ted, even pulled over at Chair 1 at Mt. Baker, unable to drive any further. Ted took over and drove the final 100 yards to the parking lot! The next day we had grand plans of doing the long traverse from the ski area to Mt. Baker volcano, but Mother Nature and our own lack of energy stood in the way. We were unable to get out of the Land Yacht before 10 am, and after 4 hours of touring in the clouds on Ptarmigan Ridge with limited views of the volcano, we decided to call it an active rest day and head back to the parking lot to regroup. It’s nice when the weather makes decisions for you (nevermind that this route is super-long and would require a much earlier start).


View of the NW side of Mt. Baker from Ptarmigan Ridge on our five hour “active rest day.”

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The group discussed our options and decided it would be best to attempt Baker the next morning from Glacier Creek, a road / drainage on the north side of the mountain. We headed down that afternoon to scout the road and found a sweet, abandoned RV park right at the base of Glacier Creek road to park the Land Yacht. The proprietor was there and we paid him ten bucks and plugged into his power and water. That afternoon provided a wonderful opportunity for a BBQ so we grilled up some fresh fish tacos with slow marinated Tilapia we had picked up at Whole Foods Market in Portland. The mood was easy as the group (Ted, Christy, Ian, Grant, Jess and myself) along with friends Tim (from Snowtroopers.com), Andy (a Baker patroller), and Holly Walker and her friend from Whistler (who were finishing some training before heading to Denali), enjoyed some cold beers and great stories of recent adventures.


Getting ready for a good night’s sleep inside the cavernous Spyder Land Yacht.

Everyone needed to catch up on sleep so it was lights out at 9pm and a 4:15am wake up. The new dawn was clear and blue. Mother Nature was at it again, blessing our team with a perfect day. Up the road to the summer trailhead we climbed, feeling our engines warm up as the sun crested the ridges to the east.

On the morning approach up the glacier to Mt. Baker.  We would ski the glacier inside of the right skyline.

Mt Baker is big and beautiful. The vertical relief is large – nearing 8,000’ from where we started – but after a string of huge days on our project we don’t bat an eye at numbers like that anymore ;-) . The group made fast progress up the Coleman-Denning route and climbed on firm, frozen corn snow onto the glacier. We ran into various friends along the way, skiers we had met over the years and in various parts of the world. It’s always cool to be reminded how small this wonderful ski community really is. We also ran into someone we had met on the summit of Mt. St. Helens, and I even ran into an old high-school classmate near the summit (Matt Schonwald, who runs BC Adventure Guides out of Seattle).


Ian Fohrman and Ted Mahon on the summit cone.


Christy Mahon climbing towards the summit. Photo Ian Fohrman

Christy climbs the final Roman Headwall to the summit.  Photo Ted Mahon

On top of Mt. Baker there was ample celebration, but as always it was tempered by the fact that as a rule we never talk it up or call it done until we are safely back at the car. Regardless, the weather up there was incredible – relatively warm with little wind and views from Canada to the great North Cascades (and even the ocean way out to the west). As many of you know I have had incredible luck with the weather throughout my career as a skier. But this run of stable, blue-sky days was almost too good to be true. We all discussed how it could be that we were able to stand on fifteen summits under perfect conditions in just fourteen days. What have I done in my life to deserve this? Well, Mother Nature, your blessings don’t go without deep thanks and gratitude (and a big shout out to our Meteorologist Joel Gratz fromFindOpenSnow.com for his accurate forecasts).


The crew on top with our young-gun friend Andrew in green. We swear – there was no discussion of color coordination.

As is somewhat typical of these volcanoes the top is still frozen, the middle section absolutely perfect, and the lower slopes a little sticky. Baker was no different. We slid down the loud, frozen snow off the summit cone and into a cool, steep serac-ridden face that made for a fun little side adventure from the main route. Although the skiing wasn’t anything special, it’s always fun to safely negotiate interesting terrain high on a steep glacier. Ian, Jess, and I skied out right while Ted and Christy came around to the left to ski the smoother slopes of the main climbing line and shoot some pictures from below.


Chris skiing the upper glacier. Photo Ted Mahon.

Ian Fohrman on firm snow in a “no-fall” zone.

Once we finally entered the perfect corn-snow zone it was game-on! High speed Super-G turns that went on and on and on. Tim from SnowTroopers.com was filming and we were all hooting and hollering, enjoying the incredible reward that we all get as ski-mountaineers – put in the hard work going up and then enjoy the spoils on the way down.

Chris enjoying great snow and high-speed turns on the descent. Photo: Ian Fohrman.

Chris, Jess, and Ian ready to rock the perfect corn snow on the descent.

Chris in fine form in the ideal spring snow. Photo Ted Mahon.

Back at the cars it was finally time for some serious hugs of thanks all around. We had done it! We achieved our goal of skiing as many volcanoes as we could during this great weather window, and having done it safely, we could be proud of all the planning and hard work we put into it. Fifteen volcanoes in fourteen days with old friends and many new one as well.  This trip has been one of the best road trips I’ve ever done in my life.  All I can say is “thanks” to everyone involved.

I will summarize the Volcano Tour along with details from each volcano and a plentitude of thanks to everyone involved in the next blog post tomorrow.

In the meantime, we are hosting a photo contest on Instagram right now.  This will be really cool and we have some amazing prizes for the coolest summit photo. Read below for details.

We are also hosting a party at Sturtevant’s Ski Shop in Bellevue, WA on Tuesday 3-6 pm and everyone is invited. I hope to see many of you there!

Until then, thanks for reading.

-Chris


Team #VolcanoTour’s Mt. Baker Route.

24 May
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Mount Rainier in a Day!

By: Chris Davenport

Written on May 18, 2012.

I’m gonna keep this one short as we’re currently in position to climb Mt. Baker and have very poor internet service. Yesterday was an amazing day on Mt. Rainier. As the highest volcano in the Lower 48, and fifth highest summit in the Lower 48, it presented a fun challenge for the Volcano Tour team. Both Ted and I had climbed and skied it before, and I have been on Rainier with Chris Pondella, but those trips were ‘over-nighters.’ The first time I skied Rainier with Ted, I ran into Sky Sjue, who was skiing it in a single day.  From that point on I had wanted to give it a go in a single day as well.  So here we were, fit (although tired) after already hiking and skiing thirteen volcanoes in eleven days – parked at the base of Rainier ready to go. There was a little discussion about our options – to camp or not to camp – but everyone agreed it would be much classier and a prouder achievement to send it in a single day. The Volcano Tour has been blessed with so many friends joining us for the peaks. For Rainier, the team was Ted and Christy Mahon, Jess McMillan, Ian Fohrman, Jim Morrison, Christian Pondella, and myself.

Washington’s Mt. Rainier (14,411’), in all of her glory. Photo: Ian Fohrman

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We were up at 3am brewing coffee and making Hulk Smoothies (our Whole Foods Market favorite). A couple of bags of Bear Naked Granola were ripped through with blueberries and coconut milk. As the team powered through breakfast there was a knock on the door, and to everyone’s surprise, Christian Pondella and Jim Morrison stepped through into the Land Yacht. This has to be one of the greatest moves of all time to come join a crew for a ski descent … Jim flew his plane from Truckee to Mammoth, picked Christian up, and they flew to Seattle, landing at 11pm the night before. They rented a car and drove straight to Paradise on Rainier, arriving at 3:30am the morning of. With absolutely no sleep at all, Jim and Chris were about to climb 9,000 vertical feet and ski Mt. Rainier.  Christian has been one of my main partners over the years in the big mountains, and is also one of the world’s premier mountain photographers. Jim and I also go way back and he has already skied Shasta, Jefferson, and Hood with us on this tour.

Christian and Jim deliriously happy below the Fuhrer Finger route.

We started up in the dark at 4:20am and made quick work up the mountain. The Nisqually Glacier was well covered, with just a few major crevasses to navigate. By 9am we were up through the classic Fuhrer Finger Couloir, and powered toward the summit.  The temps were cold, and with a stiff breeze, the day was one of the coldest we have experienced on this trip.

Christian navigates a crevasse.

Climbing mid-way up the Fuhrer Finger couloir.

Jess McMillan and the team high above the couloir moving onto the upper mountain.

Ian Fohrman on his first Rainier ascent.

The final thousand feet of Rainier is a killer, especially after having already climbing 8,000 vertical feet already that day, and 60,000 already in the last ten days. We were tired, we were cold, but we were so fired up to be on top of this magnificent mountain in a fast time, and on an awesome route. I broke out myBernese Down Jacket (part of the White Spyder Collection) for the first time on this trip, and even added some hand warmers to my gloves. We tried to sit out of the wind, where it was slightly warmer, but after a few minutes everyone agreed it was time to keep moving. We skied off the top and down the frozen upper mountain, wondering when things would soften up.

The team climbs the upper ridge 1,000’ below the summit.

Jess and Jim high on Rainier.

We didn’t shoot a ton of ski images on the way down. The skiing was marginal until we were through the Finger, where the corn really got good. But at that point, we had skied into the clouds so the visibility wasn’t so great. In any case, we made it down to Paradise and back to the Land Yacht in just over eleven hours. It was a great achievement for the team: getting all seven members up and down in a good time and on a really fun route, with no issues whatsoever. Although one-day ski descents have been done on Rainier, it certainly doesn’t happen very often; and I’m really curious if anyone out there knows of any woman who has done it in a single day as Jess has now done.

We quickly packed up the rig and headed north for a long drive to Mt. Baker. Baker may well be our final volcano of the tour, as there is some pretty significant weather moving in later in the weekend and our time is getting tight. But what a string of amazing weather we’ve encountered!

So, Chris Davenport signing off for now. Thanks for following us everyone. Stay tuned for more updates. And, once again, congrats to Christian and Jim for making such an amazing effort to join us.

-Chris

Team #VolcanoTour’s Mt. Rainier route.

24 May
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Mount St Helen’s

We were lucky to have photographer Richard Hallman along for the ride during the last few days of the #Volcano Tour. Below is a string of his photos from Day 11 on Mt. St. Helens.

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All images ©2012 Richard Hallman

24 May
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