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27 March
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Niceland

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The last three days in Iceland have been incredible. Nestled into the Skier’s Valley is Artic Heli Skiing’shome base. Peaks rise up to 4,000 vertical feet in a 360-degree view that is breathetaking.

True to its namesake (Niceland), Iceland is home to some of the most kind people I have ever met. And they have a great sense of humor. For example, we were having lunch in Olsfiorder and one of the newscasters was doing the news, on camera, in his underwear. I think he was trying to make the point that it was a nice, warm day in Iceland. Point taken.

A warm day in Iceland isn’t that warm. The average high is 55 degrees in the summer. On the flip side, it’s not as cold as I had expected. The winter temperatures average around 30 degrees.

We’ve had just a taste of the skiing so far, which definitely left us wanting more. Every direction I look there is a beautiful peak, waiting to be skied.

Most of the slopes are 35-55 degrees and average 2,000-3,000 vertical feet. Iceland may be famous for its corn skiing, but I can attest that the powder skiing is as good as it get as well.

I came to Iceland to ski, but skiing is not the only thing there is to do on the island. In the last three days I have been surfing, seen waterfalls, walked through volcanoes, stood in a light house, rode a horse, and experienced one of the most beautiful sunsets I have ever seen in my life. We even got to see the Aurora Borealis (see below).

And that is just touching the surface (the tip of the iceberg) of what there is to do and see in this magnificent place.

[After the jump there are some photo contributions from Sierra Quitiquit as well!]

 

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25 January
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Preparing for Chamonix Freeride World Tour 2013

It crazy how life changes.  On Monday, I had no plans of competing on the Freeride World Tour 2013.  By tuesday, I had a flight booked to Chamonix.  By Wednesday, I was standing at the bottom of the competition face for the second stop of the Freeride World Tour.  Apparently, I just can’t get enough of this wonderful sport.

Inspecting the Competition Face, Chamonix 2013

I am so excited to be here.  Sometimes you just feel like you are in the right place at the right time.  Hopefully, I will feel the same standing in the starting gate tomorrow.  The competition will begin at 9am.  The men will kick off the competition.  I was a little disappointed that the women would not run first, until I heard that the men will load the tram at 5am and will have to start hiking in the dark.  The hike is predicted to take 90 minutes.  The first woman should leave the starting gate at approximately 12:30pm.  I’m feeling better about skiing after the men and waking up at 8am even if there will be a few tracks on the face.

The face looks great and the snow looks even better.  Two mountain guides skied the face today.  The snow looked blower.  I’m psyched!  I have not found a line yet, but that isn’t abnormal.  I prefer to have options and see how I feel in the morning.  We will hike up the looker right couloir which will give me great view of the venue, up close and personal.

There will be a live feed for the competition tomorrow at www.freerideworldtour.com.  The men will run at 1am MST and the women should run at 4:30am MST.  I was lucky enough to choose bib 11, aka last, for the women!  Wish us luck!

Riders Inspection, Chamonix 2013

03 January
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Freeskier Profile

Profile: Jess McMillan is a model of strength and perseverance

January 3rd, 2013by 

On May 10, somewhere just shy of the summit of the South Sister, OR, Jess McMillan stopped hiking and wondered whether she was having fun at that moment. It had been one of those days—you know, the kind where you wake up at 3 a.m. after having climbed and skied five volcanoesand some 23,000 odd feet of vertical over the previous six days and you’ve been hiking for 11 hours in snow-magnified spring heat, and you’re almost out of water. She was exhausted. Not to mention a raven had unzipped her pack and helped itself to her entire lunch a few hours earlier. “At least he didn’t like gels or Shot Bloks,” she recalls.

Photos by Ian Fohrman in Jackson Hole, WY

Luckily, McMillan’s strength reserves run deep. The blonde 33-year-old big mountain skier, born and raised in Jackson Hole, grew up ski racing and hiking Teton Pass. After earning degrees in forestry and business while on the ski team at University of Montana, she succumbed to “the typical ski racer burnout,” and moved to Ashland, OR, to focus on kayaking for two years. She couldn’t stay away from Jackson long, though, and soon found herself on the hill coaching. One day she realized she wanted to be skiing, not standing there watching others do it. After a fourth place finish in her first freeskiing contest at Snowbird, she took second place in the IFSA World Tour the following year, and won the whole tour in 2007.

Her current successes—filming for Warren Miller and Storm Show the past two years while remaining a dominant force on both freeskiing tours and balancing various ski mountaineering projects—are no doubt due in part to her notoriously difficult training regimen and a serious work ethic.

Jess is an incredibly hard worker and dedicated to her sport,” says Crystal Wright, one of McMillan’s ski partners in Jackson and 2012 Freeskiing World Tour Champion. “I love skiing with her because I am continually pushed and always working toward being a better skier. Also, she is one of the toughest ladies I know mentally and will push through anything.”

McMillan became a certified Pilates instructor a few years ago and teaches classes in the summer months before heading down to Las Leñas, where she has skied each of the last eight years in a row. She then focuses hard on ski season training in the fall, which means four days a week at the elite Mountain Athlete program in Jackson doing everything from lifting, sprints, jumps, rope climbing to crossfit, plus three to four days of Pilates and either a run, hike, or bike ride four days a week.

“Over the years everyone has called skiers athletes,” says McMillan. “But big mountain skiers don’t typically train like world cup ski racers, and at the time I wasn’t training that way either. I decided that if I was going to call myself an athlete and allow others to call me an athlete, I wanted to be an athlete. The training has made me feel more like an athlete mentally and physically.”

It’s also made her incredibly resilient. A high-speed tomahawk early in the 2011 season left her with seriously injured C-1 and C-5 vertebrae in her neck, to the point where some specialists considered her lucky to be alive. Her doctor predicted an eight month recovery, but she rehabbed hard and by April was feeling strong and getting restless. It had just dumped four feet in Jackson and she had been eyeing Fat Bastard—a notorious whopper and TGR movie mainstay—for some time. She sent it and had a small tumble but considered herself healed and went on to place first at the Chilean Freeskiing Championships a few months later.

This determination, plus her positive attitude made her a natural choice when Chris Davenport was looking for partners for his Volcano Tour this past spring. “Jess has as good an attitude as one can have out in the mountains,” says Chris, “She is really strong and confident, a tough woman, and willing to push herself. But her optimism and stoke is really what was so important for this project.”

McMillan and Davenport were the only two to do the whole tour—15 volcanoes in 14 days for a total of nearly 80,000 vertical feet and 141 miles of skiing on every volcano from Mt. Shasta in California to Mt. Baker in Washington. They lived in and drove a huge motorhome, were sponsored by Whole Foods and consumed many Hulk Smoothies (ingredients in this concoction include Maca powder, bananas, and kale) and were joined by various friends for different peaks with up to eight people staying in the RV at one time.

During such a grueling trip, the fact that McMillan experienced only that one exhausted, questioning moment on South Sister is especially impressive. As she rested and contemplated, Davenport poked his head over the ridge from the peak just above, and yelled, “Are you coming?” Jess sighed. “Yes, I’m coming!” Chris hollered, “Well then keep walking!” “I’m walking, damnit,” she muttered, and continued upwards.

Soon she was ripping her signature powerful turns back to the land yacht, forgetting she ever even questioned herself. “You get to the top, and you ski down, and it’s amazing corn and you’re like, yeah, I was having fun the whole time.”

*This article originally appeared in the 2013 FREESKIER Backcountry Issue. Subscribe to the magazine, or get it on the iTunes Newsstand.
12 June
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25 April
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27,798 Vertical Feet Ascended this Week!

Week 1: 21,285 Vertical Feet Ascended
Week 2 Goal: Ascend 25,300 Vertical Feet
Monday: Northeast Shoulder of Teewinot Approx 4,000 Vert
Tuesday: JHMR 4139 Vert and Snow King 1571 Vert = 5,571 Vert
Wednesday: JHMR 4139 Vert
Thursday: Two Glory laps and 2500 Up JHMR = 5,810 Vert
Friday: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort 4139
Saturday: Jackson Hole Mountain Resort 4139
Total Vert Ascended This Week: 27,798 Vert

Last week was a long one.  27,798 vertical feet is a lot of uphill walking.  Saturday skinning up Jackson Hole Mountain Resort will my last until the temperatures drop down to freezing.  As I was skinning up the mountain in 70 degree weather, mountain bikers were riding by on the dry single track.  The temps have been in 40′s up high and the snow is mush.  Needless to say the skiing isn’t good.  The snow is disappearing daily and I have one more week of training.  My training schedule states that I am to ascend 29,400 vertical feet this week.  Apparently mother nature was not consulted when creating my training schedule.

Tis the Season!

Sometimes it is easier to go with the flow than to swim upstream.  Skinning in 70 degree weather to ski mush felt like swimming upstream.  So I decided to finish the week off on my bike.  A few of the single track trails are dry and the Park road is clear!  Time to do some biking!


19 April
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“Ring of Fire” Training – Pow Day at JHMR!

Week 1: 21,285 Vertical Feet Ascended
Week 2 Goal: Ascend 25,300 Vertical Feet
Day 1: Northeast Shoulder of Teewinot Approx 4,000 Vert
Day 2: JHMR 4139 Vert and Snow King 1571 Vert = 5,571 Vert
Day 3: JHMR 4139 Vert
Total Vert Ascended: 13,710 Vert

Hadley Hammer Earning Her Turns at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort

It is still winter in Jackson Hole.  I woke up today feeling super tired after skinning the village, skinning Snow King, and Mountain Athlete.  And to really kill my motivation it was raining outside.  I knew it had snowed up high, but was pretty content sitting by the fire drinking coffee.  I started to do the math to see if I could achieve my goal for the week and take a day off.  I calculated that if I took today off, I would have to ski around 7,000 vert per day for the rest of the week.  That was enough to get me going.  And I’m glad I did.

The skiing was awesome at Jackson Hole Mountain Resort.  I may have skied one of my best Rendevous Bowls of the season.  There was 8 inches of pow up high!  Today was a great day of training!


17 April
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“Ring of Fire” Training Week 2 – Northeast Shoulder of Teewinot

Northeast Shoulder of Teewinot Mountain

My goal for week 2 is ascend 25,300 vertical feet.  To kick the week off, I wanted to get into the Tetons.  I have always wanted to ski the East Face of Teewinot Mountain.  The weather forecast was a little discouraging, but it had also been wrong all weekend.  The forecast called for 6-8 inches in the mountains above 8,000 feet and clearing at 6am.  Before I went to sleep that night, I decided that if it did snow 6-8 inches, I would ski the Northeast Shoulder of Teewinot instead of going for the East Face.

Skiing Pow on the Northeast Shoulder of Teewinot

The forecast was actually right.  It did snow 6-8 inches over night.  Waking up to see snow on the ground, I decided to go for plan b, the northeast shoulder.  I had heard that it offered amazing skiing and decided it would be safer than skiing the East Face of Teewinot.

Alex Weston and I Boot Packing Up to the Highest Point on the Ridge

The weather forecast was correct on the amount of snow, but the skies did not clear at 6am.  Eric, Alex, and I spent the morning skinning up the mountain in pea soup.  It was hard to gauge where we were with limited visibility.  As we reached the top of the ridge, the clouds started to break up and the view was outstanding.

Alex Weston Enjoying the View Across Cascade Canyon

The morning stayed cold and we weren’t to concerned that the snow would heat up.  We hiked to the top of the ridge and enjoyed a snack while waiting for the clouds to lift.  The skiing down was awesome.  We skied 8 inches of pow down a steep forested slope.

Eric Seymour Enjoying the Snow

The snow at the bottom was a little thin and we had a few creek crossings by the moose ponds that added to a great day.

Creek Crossing in the Moose Ponds

The best part of riding your bike to Lupine Meadows is that on the way back to the Taggart Lake Parking lot, it is all down hill.

Alex Weston Pulling into the Taggart Lake Parking Lot

I would highly recommend the Northeast Shoulder of Teewinot.  The skiing was awesome, think 25-short on steroids.  It is also a safe alternative to the high peaks if you are concerned about the snow conditions.

15 April
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“Ring of Fire” Training – Week One 21,285 Vertical Feet Ascended

Volcano Training Program Week 1: 21,200 Vertical
Total Vert Skied 21,285
Day 1: Taylor Mountain 3,000
Day 2: Buck Mountain: 6,000
Day 3 – Tapped. 0
Day 4 – Jackson Hole Mountain Resort 4,139
Day 5 -Jackson Hole Mountain Resort 4,139
Day 6 – Glory to Taylor Approximately 4007

Skinning Up Taylor Mountain

I am really excited that achieved my goal for the week.  I know there are people who hike twice as much in a week, but for me it was a start and I’m feeling pretty good about it.  I had a friend send me a facebook message:

“Thought you lift riders might appreciate a roommate I had who in one season averaged over 7,000 vert/ day for over 120 days in a row. His name was Sick Bird and he skied in Lang boots.”

I am thoroughly impressed.  Yet I am a lift rider.  I haven’t skinned once this year until last monday.  So for a lift rider, I am feeling good about my 21,285 vertical feet for the week.

I started with Taylor this week and finished with Taylor.  An elite endurance athlete told me that one of his favorite training routes was to boot pack up Glory, ski down to Coal Creek, and then skin up Taylor.  It sounded like a great idea, so that is what I did.  And he was right.  It’s a great training route.

Taylor Mountain

Taylor Mountain

The boot pack up Glory is a great way to get your heart rate up and always fun to push yourself to see how fast you can reach the summit.  All of this training is starting to pay off.  I hiked Glory faster than I ever have!

Busy Day Up the Glory Boot Pack

The ski down from Glory was perfect corn and super fun!

From Coal Creek we skinned up Taylor.  The day was beautiful and we were all happy to reach the summit!

PYT, Eric, and Jess on the Summit of Taylor

We were worried that the snow might be too soft because it was late in the day, but to our surprise the skiing was great!

Dropping In off Taylor Mountain

Ripping Corn On Taylor Mountain

And of course the standard hitch hike back up to the top of Teton Pass.

Eric and I Catching a Ride

Pete Leitton Feeling Pretty Good About His Day.

It always feels good to achieve a goal.  I’m going to enjoy a day off and will be back at it on Monday.  My goal for week 2 is 25,300 vertical.

09 April
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“Ring of Fire” Training Program – Day 1, Taylor Mountain

Taylor Mountain, Teton Pass WY

It is hard to believe that Jackson Hole Mountain Resort closed yesterday.  I feel like winter just started.  Although when I look back at my winter, I realize I was really busy.  After three flights to Europe, a road trip to Canada, cold smoke pow in Alaska, and three separate weeks in Telluride, my winter was action packed.  Luckily, it’s not over.  There may be green grass in the valley, but there is still snow in the Tetons.  And for the first time this winter conditions are looking good and safe!  And I have an objective!

The Spyder Team is going on the road.  I have been invited by Chris Davenport along with Darron Rahlves to ski as many volcanos as possible in Oregon and Washington in 20 days.  I was elated to get the invite until I realized that I haven’t skinned once this winter.  I have been lucky enough to be ushered to the tops of peaks by chairlifts, snowcats, and helicopters.

I have one month to get fit enough to climb and ski as many volcanos as possible in 20 days.  Sounds easy, right.  Maybe, unless you are trying to keep up with Chris Davenport and Daron Rahlves.  Daron Rahlves, who is the most decorated American downhill and super G skier in history.  Not too mention an all around badass.   Chris has skied all of the 14′ers in Colorado, climbed and skied Everest, and is currently climbing and skiing the Wrangle Mountains in Alaska.  And those are just a few of his recent accomplishments.  So yes, it’s time to get in shape.

Mountain Athlete to the rescue!  Rob has designed a plan to kick my butt for the next three weeks.  In his words, “This is a very ambitious training cycle.  You will train 6 days/week, often 2 x a day, skinning in the morning and training at mountain athlete in the evenings.”

Week 1 – Skin 21,200 Vertical Feet

Week 2 – Skin 25,000 Vertical Feet

Week 3 – Skin 29,000 Vertical Feet

As for what happens within the walls of the Mountain Athlete Gym, well….. you’ll have to go see for yourself.

Day 1 – Taylor Mountain

There are people who ski Taylor Mountain before work at 9:00 in Jackson.  I’m not one of those people.  I am usually standing in the tram line hoping for first tracks down the Bowl.  I’m sure people will scoff, but Taylor Mountain seemed to be a good place to start.  Taylor is 10,200 feet and 3,000 vertical feet of climbing.  So I only have to ascend 19,200 vertical feet for the rest of the week.  One step at a time, right?

Taylor Mountain, Teton Pass WY

The skiing was awesome on Taylor.  We skied at 11:00am.  The snow had turned to smooth corn and it was one of my best descents I have ever had on Taylor.  Let’s just say, training can be fun too!

Perfect Corn on Taylor Mountain

You can still ski all the way to trailhead, but the snow is getting thin.  I have a quick break to enjoy a cup of espresso and then off to Mountain Athlete.

26 March
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